Notes from Lagos

Nigeria’s post colonial history has been turbulent. It has oscillated between military dictatorships and elected governments. While the former have been ruthless, the latter, typically corrupt, unpopular and eventually overthrown in military coups. The good news though, is that at present, Nigeria is witnessing a period of unprecedented growth under a democratically elected government led by a popular President, Goodluck Jonathan. Today, Nigeria celebrated its 51st independence day.

You don’t often come across a destitute in Lagos, which would suggest that occurrence of extreme poverty here is lower than in Indian cities such as Mumbai or Delhi. However, if you look at Nigeria’s macroeconomic data, you will realize that around 45% of the population lives below the poverty line, there is high income disparity (wikipedia reports a Gini of 43.7 for 2003), and the country gets a very low score on indicators such as the Human Development Index. Corruption is widespread and stark. A traveler to Lagos is likely to be demanded a bribe even before he lands. Lagos for visitors is an expensive city, especially when it comes to food and hospitality.

Most of the common people, one meets are friendly and warm. One feels a certain respect for them as one realizes the kind of challenges – conflicts, warlordism, corruption, poverty – they face as they go about building their society and economy.